Brilliant Bierzo: The astounding wines from César Márquez

César Márquez is not just one of the most exciting voices in modern Bierzo, but all of Spain. As the nephew of Raúl Pérez—widely considered one of Spain's most influential vignerons—César was immersed in the region's viticultural traditions from a young age. In 2015, he launched his own project, focusing on old-vine Mencía and Godello sourced from some of Bierzo's most historic and characterful vineyard sites.

Working predominantly around the village of Valtuille de Abajo, Márquez farms a mosaic of tiny, often steep parcels planted on clay, slate, and decomposed schist soils. Many of these vineyards are 60–100+ years old, producing naturally low yields and wines of remarkable concentration and nuance. Viticulture is organic in practice, with a strong emphasis on preserving biodiversity and expressing site over intervention.

In the cellar, César takes a gentle, minimalist approach—partial whole-cluster fermentation, native yeasts, restrained extraction, and élevage in large neutral oak and foudre. The result is a collection of wines that some are comparing to great Burgundy such is their nuance and transparency of site. They balance the wild, aromatic charm of Mencía with the finesse of great Côte de Nuits: lifted florals, red and black fruits, fine mineral tension, and a distinctive savoury edge.